Kiri Vehera in Kataragama is one of the sixteen sacred places that have been visited by Buddha Shakyamuni in Sri Lanka.

Kiri Vehera Stupa (Kiri Vehera) in Kataragama is one of the sixteen sacred places in Sri Lanka that have been visited by Buddha Shakyamuni (Solosmasthana). Kiri Vehera is unique because it facilitates a close and beautiful relationship between Buddhism and Hinduism. In the 6th century BC, King Mahasena, the previous incarnation of the celebrated God of War within the Hindu pantheon, Lord Murugan, met with Buddha Shakyamuni and took refuge in the Three Jewels. After this meeting, the king built Kiri Vehera in Kataragama to commemorate Buddha Shakyamuni’s visit. The relationship that was forged between Buddha Shakyamuni and Lord Murugan facilitated a close and peaceful coexistence between Buddhist and Hindu devotees in the region.

Therefore, Kiri Vehera in Kataragama is a must-visit place because it is charged with the Buddha’s blessings, and it inspires peace and tolerance among people of different backgrounds and faiths.

Tsem Rinpoche
 

History

The legend of Kiri Vehera Stupa

Buddha Shakyamuni visited Kataragama in 580 BC and gave a discourse to King Mahasena.

In 580 BC, eight years after he became enlightened, Buddha Shakyamuni, together with 500 arahants, went to Kajaragama (Kataragama) and met with King Mahasena who ruled over Mahagama, the present day Tissamaharama. Buddha Shakyamuni gave a discourse in the king’s Kihir tree garden. After listening to the precious Dharma from the Buddha, King Mahasena attained the stage of sovan or the first stage of spiritual eminence. Buddha Shakyamuni gave King Mahasena a lock of his hair and a sword that was used to cut his hair when he renounced his worldly life. After this meeting, King Mahasena built a stupa on the spot where Buddha Shakyamuni sat, to commemorate his visit and to enshrine the hair, sword, and the golden throne that the Buddha used to deliver the teaching. In addition, King Mahasena vowed to protect and promote Buddhism. Since the stupa was built on the garden of Kihir trees, it was known as Kihir Vehera. For easier pronunciation, the name was later changed to Kiri Vehera.

Buddha Shakyamuni’s visit to Kataragama is mentioned in Dhatuvamsa, a palm leaf manuscript found in Sri Lanka, and Samanthapasadika, a compendium of commentaries on Theravada Tipitaka Vinaya that was translated from Sinhala language into Pali by Buddhaghosa, a 5th century Indian Theravadan Buddhist and scholar. According to various historical records, Kiri Vehera was also known as Magulmahaseya.

The Legend of the God of Kataragama

Lord Murugan, the protector deity of Kataragama and his two consorts, Valliamma and Thevaniamma.

After he had passed away, King Mahasena was reborn as the God of Kataragama. He was also known by various names, Kartikeya, Skanda Kumara, or Lord Murugan. The people of Kataragama regarded Lord Murugan as Kataragama Deviyo or the protector deity of Kataragama, who would help those who appealed to him with faith. Maureen Seneviratne, a Sri Lankan writer and journalist, stated in her article, The Cult of Kataragama, that Kartikeya, Kanda Kumara, Lord Murugan, and the God of Kataragama are the same deity:

The cult of Kataragama is that of the war-god of the Hindu pantheon. At first, he dwelt with the other gods and his terrible father, Siva the Destroyer, third and awesome lord of the great Hindu Triumvirate, on the Mount Kailasa. To his devotees, the god of Kataragama is known by many names and many powers are attributed to him. Kandasamy they call him, or Kanda Kumara, Skanda or Subramanyo, the second son of the high, majestic Siva; Muruga: the god of youth and tenderness and beauty, especially in Ceylon, because all these things, and love of a maiden, brought him to the island—so legend has it, thousands of years ago. But Muruga is a name only spoken in fulsome awe; it is never written for it is too holy a word for that. Kartikeya is another of his names denoting his origin: ‘the one coming from the Pleiades;’ Gangeya: ‘born from the Ganges,’ sacred river of the Hindus in India; Sanmugam: ‘the one with six faces.’

Lord Murugan’s parents, God Shiva and his wife, Parvati.

According to Hindu mythology, Lord Murugan was the son of God Shiva and his wife, Parvati. He was also the brother of Ganesha, the God of Wisdom. One day, Narada, Lord Brahma’s son who wandered in the three worlds, introduced Lord Murugan to Valliamma, a girl whom he spotted in the southeastern forest of Sri Lanka. Valliamma was the daughter of the chieftain of the indigenous Vedda tribe. Prior to this event, Valliamma had made a vow that she would not marry any man except for the God of Kataragama himself. Due to the power of this vow, Lord Murugan came to her and helped her to fulfil her vow by marrying her. After the marriage, Lord Murugan’s first wife and the daughter of Lord Indra, Thevaniamma, came to Sri Lanka and made fruitless attempts to ask Lord Murugan to get rid of Valliamma. Eventually, Thevaniamma decided to accept the situation and stay with Lord Murugan and Valliamma in the mountain jungle near Menik Ganga. Today, Kataragama residents celebrate the relationship between Lord Murugan and Valliamma in the annual Esela Perehera (Esala Festival).

Lord Murugan was a faithful follower of Buddha Shakyamuni’s teachings. Through his sincere help, Lord Murugan managed to gain the love and respect of the people in Kataragama. Lord Murugan is depicted as having six faces, twelve hands and eyes to signify that he has the physical strength of six men. The people of Kataragama believe that Lord Murugan and his two wives live in Kebiliththa, in Yala National Park. Every year, thousands of Lord Murugan’s devotees visit Kebiliththa to make offering and get his blessing.

Every year, thousands of devotees come to Kebiliththa to make offering to Lord Murugan and to get his blessing.

The relationship between Kiri Vehera, sacred Bodhi tree, and Kataragama Devalaya

Shanghamitta (281 – 202 BC), the daughter of Emperor Ashoka, brought the Bodhi tree sapling to Sri Lanka.

In the 3rd century BC, the daughter of Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, Sanghamitta (281 – 202 BC), brought the sapling of the original Bodhi tree, under which Buddha Shakyamuni attained enlightenment, from India to Sri Lanka. The Bodhi tree was later planted in Anuradhapura. One of the first saplings that sprang from the Anuradhapura Bodhi tree was brought to Kataragama and planted near Kiri Vehera. Today the Bodhi tree in Kataragama religious complex has become the sacred object of veneration.

After King Mahasena built Kiri Vehera, several kings who came to pay homage at this sacred place renovated and made improvements to Kiri Vehera. One of these kings was King Dutugemunu (r. 161 – 137 BC). According to the legend, when he was in Menik Ganga area, to prepare for a war with King Elara (r. 205 – 161 BC), a Chola Dynasty prince who invaded and usurped the throne of Anuradhapura Kingdom, Lord Murugan appeared before King Dutugemunu and said “O’ Prince, go fearlessly your way ahead, your victory is certain and always believe that I am by your side whatever happens.” Lord Murugan then gave a sword to King Dutugemunu to be used in the war. According to Mahavamsa, the chronicles of Sri Lankan kings, King Dutugemunu then made a vow in front of the Bodhi tree in Kataragama that he would renovate Kiri Vehera and build a shrine to honour Lord Murugan. After he was successful in overthrowing King Elara and brought the regions in Sri Lanka under unification, King Dutugemunu went to Kiri Vehera in Kataragama to meditate. Once again Lord Murugan appeared before the king and shot an arrow in the direction of Wedihiti Kanda, a rocky mountain near Kiri Vehera, and instructed the king to build a shrine for people to venerate him in that place. It was believed that the arrow fell on the spot where Lord Murugan met his second wife, Valliamma.

The Bodhi tree in Kataragama.

King Dutugemunu (r. 161 – 137 BC) who renovated Kiri Vehera and built Kataragama Devalaya.

Wedihiti Kanda – Lord Murugan appeared before King Dutugemunu and shot an arrow in the direction of Wedihiti Kanda, a rocky mountain near Kiri Vehera, and instructed the king to build a shrine for people to venerate him in that place.

True to his promise, King Dutugemunu enlarged Kiri Vehera stupa and built Kataragama Devalaya, a temple to honour Lord Murugan. Since Lord Murugan mainly resides in Kebiliththa and only come to Kataragama Devalaya on special occasions such as Esala Festival or poya (full moon) days, his minister, Kadawara Deviyo, is believed to be the guardian of the temple. Kiri Vehera, the sacred Bodhi tree, and Kataragama Devalaya are located in the present-day Kataragama religious complex.

The entrance of Kataragama Devalaya.

Kataragama Devalaya was originally built by King Dutugemunu.

Kadawara Deviyo, Lord Murugan’s minister and the guardian of Kataragama Devalaya.

The Dark Ages

In the 13th century, King Kalinga Magha (r. 1215 – 1236), who was also known as Magha the Tyrant, invaded the kingdoms in Sri Lanka and brought massive destruction to many sacred places including Kiri Vehera and Kataragama religious complex. The area was soon covered with jungle and became hidden from human view until the 20th century. During these dark ages, only several pilgrims and villagers who lived near the area knew about the existences of Kiri Vehera and Kataragama Devalaya. They continued to worship Lord Murugan at the hidden temple although they had to walk to the shrine since there were no proper roads to access the place.

Kiri Vehera Restoration Projects

Between 1911 and 1912, a group of archaeologists that consisted of H.C.P. Bell (CCS), Hocart, Dr. Senarath Paranavitane, Dr. Raja H. de Silva, Dr. D.T. Devendra, Dr. Godakumbure, M.H. Sirisoma, and Roland de Silva, made major attempts to uncover many archaeological sites in Sri Lanka, including Kiri Vehera.

The statue of Sir Cyril de Zoysa (1896 – 1978) in Kataragama.

A more focus renovation program was executed in 1970 under the leadership of Sir Cyril de Zoysa (1896 – 1978), a Sri Lankan industrialist, senator, and philanthropist who formed the Kiri Vehera Restoration Society. When he took on the project, only the pinnacle of the stupa was visible. By referring to the ancient chronicles and historical records about the dimensions and specifications of the stupa, Sir Cyril de Zoysa identified the sacred Kiri Vehera and restored it to the current glory. On 26 October 1970, Sri Lanka Prime Minister at the time, the Honourable Dudley Senanayake, officially crowned Kiri Vehera with a gilded pinnacle. In May 2009, to commemorate the contribution of Sir Cyril de Zoysa to the city of Kataragama, the honourable Speaker of the House, W.J.M. Lokubandara, unveiled the statue of this great man. The Sri Lankan government continued to maintain and made improvements to the stupa. In 2014, a permanent lighting system was installed at Kiri Vehera.

In 2014, President of Sri Lanka, Mahinda Rajapaksa, inaugurated a permanent lighting system at Kiri Vehera.

About Kiri Vehera Stupa

Every year, many devotees come to Kiri Vehera to make offerings to this sacred stupa.

With the measurement of 29m (95ft) tall and 85.3m (280ft) circumference, the majestic Kiri Vehera is milky white in colour. According to Richard Gombrich and Gananath Obeyesekere, in their book titled Buddhism Transformed: Religious Change in Sri Lanka, the significance of Kiri Vehera’s colour is described as follows:

If the predominant colour in Kataragama is red, the colour of the Kiri Vehera is white; if one place represents the celebration of the senses, the other celebrates their subjugation and transcendence. Underlying all of this is the powerful “myth model” of the Buddha’s own renunciation of the world: his enjoyment of a life of hedonism; his confrontation with the four signs – sickness, old age, death, and the model of their transcendence in the yellow-robed medicant; his final achievement of salvation – a calm, a blowing out, nirvana. The pilgrim also has made his full progress: he crosses the river and leaves the everyday reality of mundane existence; from there he goes on to the passion and sensuality of Kataragama, then to the shock of life’s suffering and misery, and finally to a realisation of release from both passion and misery – all aspects of impermanence – into the serenity and calm of the Kiri Vehera.” Even today, over two thousand years after it was first built, the sacred Kiri Vehera continued to attract thousands of pilgrims and tourists from around the world.

Visitors and Buddhist devotees make flower offerings at the sacred Kiri Vehera.

Beautiful offerings of light at Kiri Vehera.

The current head of Kiri Vehera Raja Maha Viharaya is Venerable Kobawaka Dhamminda Thera. He was the senior student of the late Venerable Dr. Aluthwewa Soratha Nayaka Thera (Venerable Soratha Thera) (1943 – 2013), the previous chief incumbent of the temple.

Address:
Kataragama
91400 Kataragama, Uva Province
Phone: +94 47 2 235237
Opening hours: 24 hours
Entrance fee: free

About Kataragama Religious Complex

Kataragama Religious Complex is the representation of the religious tolerance in Sri Lanka where people of various faiths coexist peacefully. In addition to Kiri Vehera, the sacred Bodhi tree, and Kataragama Devalaya, there is a Muslim mosque in the area. Visitors and pilgrims can make offering of flowers and fruits to the sacred places and purchased mementos from the nearby souvenir shops/ stalls.

A small stall that sells flower offering at Kiri Vehera.

The small stalls that sell souvenirs at Kiri Vehera.

The small stalls that sell souvenirs at Kiri Vehera.

Best Time to Visit

Kataragama in Uva Province is influenced by Northeastern monsoon. Visitors can expect dryer weather from May to September. The best time to visit Kataragama is during Vesak celebration in May or during Esala Festival between the month of July and August.

The relationship between Buddhism and Hinduism in Kataragama

Venerable Dr. Aluthwewa Soratha Nayaka Thera (1943 – 2013), the late chief of Kiri Vehera Raja Maha Viharaya.

The relationship between Buddhism and Hinduism in Kataragama is oblivious. The Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims that visited the place showed their deep veneration to the Buddhist sites of Kiri Vehera and the Bodhi tree, and the Hindu site, Kataragama Devalaya. In 2003, the late Venerable Soratha Thera explained about this unique relationship in an interview with The Sunday Observer:

[In his previous life as King Mahasena, Lord Murugan had taken] refuge in the Triple Gems and vowed to remain to protect and promote the Buddhist religion and its followers for all time to come. …

Many Buddhists believe that the Kataragama God is a Bodhisattva (Buddha-to-be) having the power and compassion to intervene in the lives of those who appeal to him. He is the guardian and friend of Sri Lankan Buddhists especially, but he will help people of any religion and nationality.

It makes no difference if one is a Buddhist, Hindu, Jain or what. Respect him and have firm faith in him, and he can intervene to settle personal problems that interfere with one’s spiritual growth. There are tried and proven ways to obtain his help.

Regarding some comments made that Lord Murugan is a Hindu god, and therefore he should not be worshiped by Buddhists, Venerable Soratha Thera explained:

Our Sinhala traditions preserved [oral] and ancient poems like the Kanda Upata [which] declare that Kataragama Deviyo came to this Sinhala Deepa long ago by boat from North India, just as our ancestor Vijaya and his companions did also. This god has been living here as long as we have, maybe even longer. He had never harmed anyone, except those who aimed to do injustice or harm to others. We consider god Kataragama to be one of the Four Guardian Deities* of the Sinhala pantheon, perhaps the most powerful one of them all. If Hindus and others wish to worship him, we Buddhists have no objection. He is great enough to satisfy everyone, whatever their backgrounds or beliefs are.

*Note: The four guardian deities of Sri Lanka are Kataragama (Lord Murugan), Vishnu, Pattini, and Saman.

Regarding the comments made by some people that said there is no place in Buddhism for god worship, Venerable Soratha Thera explained:

Lord Buddha himself met and accepted the salutations of major deities like Brahma, Indra, and others. He never denied the existence of devas. He was a great friend to humans and non-humans alike.

Modern-educated Sri Lankans, influenced by Western misinterpretations of Buddhism, cling to the mistaken idea that Lord Buddha advocated 19th century-style rationalism or atheism. We should protect the Buddha Sasana by accepting the whole body of traditional Buddhist doctrine and practice, and not pick and choose to suit the passing fashions of thought.

Due to the great contribution of scholar monks like Venerable Soratha Thera, Buddhism in Sri Lanka continued to coexist peacefully with other beliefs in the region.

Festivals

Esala Festival

The lively procession during Esala Festival.

Esala Festival is the biggest event in Kataragama and is usually held in the month of July and August. Although the objectives of Esala Festival are to celebrate Lord Murugan and his courtship with Valliamma, the event is closely related to Kiri Vehera and Sinhala Buddhism. Before any festival, the secretary of Kataragama Devalaya come to Kiri Vehera to make offering of betel chew to the chief incumbent and take five lay person vows (Pancha Sil) prior to fixing the festival dates and inviting the sangha’s participation. Buddhist Parita chanting (Pirith Nilaya) during the festival may only be performed by the monks of Kiri Vehera Raja Maha Viharaya. The first puja should be offered to Buddha Shakyamuni before performing a puja for Lord Murugan.

Menik Ganga. During Esala Festival, people of various faiths and religions clean themselves with holy water from Menik Ganga.

People of various faiths and backgrounds (e.g., Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims, and the indigenous Vedda tribe members) attend Esala Festival. During the festival, the attendees clean themselves with the holy water from Menik Ganga and make offerings of fruits, incense, and flowers at the temple. The acts of self-mortification such as walking on hot ember or Kavadi dancing, are also common among Hindu devotees.

The highlight of Esala Festival happens on the full moon evening. The event begins with the chanting of Buddhist Parita by the monks of Kiri Vehera Raja Maha Viharaya to invite the blessings of the Three Jewels. The monks then sprinkled the blessed water on the Basnayake Nilame (Chief Official) of Kataragama Devalaya and his entourage as an indication that the event is also sacred to Buddhist devotees. Then, the joyous procession started. There are two trained elephants that joined the event. One of the elephants carry a relic casket that represents the presence of Buddha Shakyamuni, and another elephant carries a six-cornered yantra (spiritual) device that represent Lord Murugan’s presence. The procession proceeds to Kiri Vehera where the monks received the Chief Official of Kataragama Devalaya. The Chief Official takes refuge in the Three Jewels and accepts Pancha Sil. A Gilanpasa Buddha Puja is then performed, and offerings were made to Buddha Shakyamuni and the sangha members. After the Buddhist rituals are completed, the space is filled with the blessings of Lord Murugan.

The lively procession during Esala Festival.

The lively procession during Esala Festival.

Vesak Day

The sacred and beautiful Kiri Vehera is illuminated with lights on Vesak day.

Another important event at Kiri Vehera is Vesak day that celebrates Buddha Shakyamuni’s birth, enlightenment, and Parinirvana. Just like in other parts of Sri Lanka, in Kiri Vehera, Vesak is celebrated during full moon day in May. The event is marked by the religious and cultural festival. During Vesak celebration, Kiri Vehera is illuminated with lights, and many Dharma related activities (e.g., Dharma discussions, meditation) are held.

Nanumura Mangalya

Every Saturday morning, Nanumura Mangalya, a ceremony to offer Menik Ganga water to the sacred Bodhi tree is held to commemorate King Mahasena’s vow of allegiance to the Buddhist principles.

How To Get there

Kataragama is located in Uva Province and approximately 15 km (9.3 mi) from Yala National Park. Visitors can travel by bus or alternatively by chartered car. Kataragama can be reached from Tissamahara (1 hour by bus), Ella (3 hours by bus), Colombo (45 minutes by airplane or 6 hours by bus).

Accommodation

The town of Kataragama is a popular pilgrimage spot for Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and the indigenous Vedda people of Sri Lanka. Many places have sprung up to cater for these pilgrims, but if you visit Kataragama in July and August when Esala Festival is held, the accommodation can be scarce. Below are just some of the several places available. It is recommended that you do further research to find accommodation that is suitable for your needs.
1. Mandara Rosen

The hotel is located in the midst of lush mountain, and it offers 58 tastefully designed rooms with modern amenities.

Address:
No 57 Detagamuwa
Kataragama 91400, Sri Lanka
Phone: +94 47 2 236030
Website: http://www.mandararosen.com
2. Gregory’s Safari Bungalow Yala

The Bungalow offers four air-conditioned bedrooms and cabana equipped with modern amenities.

Address:
No.101/18, Manikpuragama
Wallimathagama,
Kataragama, Sri Lanka.
Phone: +94 71 944 5566
Website: http://www.gregorybungalow.com/katharagama/index.php

 
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For more interesting information:

• Wonderful Sri Lanka
• Avalokiteshvara in Sri Lanka
• Giritale, Sri Lanka (site of the replica Avukana Buddha)
• Gal Vihara: The Stone Temple of Sri Lanka
• Brief Garden: A Hidden Paradise in Sri Lanka
• Exquisite Nagadeepa Vihara in Sri Lanka
• Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara-A sacred place to visit
• Thaipusam – The Festival of Lord Murugan
• 8 Holy Buddhist Pilgrimage Sites – Part 1
• Emperor Ashoka the Great

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