(By Tsem Rinpoche)

This is a powerful energy and spiritual vortex as well as a incredibly rich cultural locale. The exquisite Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara (Sinhalese: නාගදීප පුරාණ විහාරය, Tamil: நயினாதீவு நாக விகாரை) is considered one of the sixteen most sacred places of worship by Buddhists in Sri Lanka. It is one of the sites that pilgrims have been visiting since the 1st century, especially to worship at the Rajayatana stupa, located on the island of Nagadeepa (or Nainativu), a small but notable island off the coast of Jaffna Peninsula in the Northern Province of Sri Lanka. It is sacred to Buddhists and all spiritual seekers. Meditation in this place will afford great blessings.

At the same time it is a culturally rich and ancient place to visit for the traveler. Those of us who bask in the learning and understanding of various and ancient cultures must visit this particular place and Sri Lanka overall. Sri Lanka is one of the most beautiful places on earth as well as blessed with extremely friendly people and is affordable. It should be on every traveler’s must visit list. An exotic and spiritual place which would enhance any visitor both new and seasoned.

History

The Tamil Buddhist epic Manimekala mentions a gem-studded throne, and a stone with the impression of the Buddha’s footprint on it, located on the island of Nainativu (also known as Nagadeepa), which pilgrims from India visited. The Mahavamsa or ‘The Great Chronicle’, an important work on Sri Lankan history stated that the Buddha visited Nagadeepa and settled a dispute between two naga kings, regarding the same gem-studded throne.

One of the two representations of the gem-studded throne in the compound of the vihara.

In the fifth year after Buddha Shakyamuni’s complete enlightenment (around 523 BCE), two naga clans in Sri Lanka, led by King Mahodhara and his nephew Chulodhara, respectively, were on the brink of war over the gem-studded throne in Nagadeepa. While in Jetavana Grove, the Buddha using his clairvoyance, saw the disaster that was about to take place and so travelled to Sri Lanka. He arrived on the day of Bak Amawaka Poya (fifteen days prior to the Bak Full Moon Poya Day).

A deva named Samiddhasumana, who dwelt in the Rajayatana tree (a banyan tree) in Jetavana, uprooted the tree and held it like a parasol over the Buddha. He accompanied the Buddha to Nagadeepa from Jetavana, and this deva had in fact lived in Nagadeepa during one of his previous rebirths, so he had some karmic connection with the place. It was in his previous rebirth that he had provided some Pratyeka Buddhas with leaves from a tree to clean their alms bowls. The merit he generated from this simple act caused him to be born as a deva in Jetavana Grove.

Mahodhara was a king in Nagadeepa, a naga kingdom in the ocean that covered five hundred ‘yojanas’ (an ancient measurement of length, roughly 15km in today’s standard). His younger sister, Thirachchika was married to the naga King of Vaddhamana Mountain and had a son, Chulodhara.

Thirachchika was gifted a gem-studded throne, one of her father’s treasures, before his death. Mahodhara was displeased, and when the throne’s ownership was given to his nephew Chulodhara, Mahodhara decided to declare war against him.

A mural in the compound of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara depicting Lord Buddha’s visit to resolve the conflict among two naga kings.

As the Buddha arrived in Nagadeepa, he hovered in mid-air above the battlefield. He called forth dreaded darkness, and then later, spread light again, showing a miracle that shocked the nagas out of their battle. When the nagas saw the Buddha, they joyfully paid reverence to him. The Buddha then preached to the warring factions on the virtues of non-violence, and narrated to them Jataka stories such as of Karkoluka, Pandana, Latukika, and Wattaka. These stories portray the evils of hatred and the importance of living in harmony. Chulodhara and Mahodhara settled the dispute and offered the gem-studded throne to the Buddha. The Buddha then sat down and was offered celestial food and drink by the naga kings.

Mahodhara’s uncle, the naga King Maniakkhika of Kelaniya, who was there to take part in the battle, praised the Buddha’s great compassion, saying that had the Buddha not appeared, they would have all been consumed to ashes and many lives would have been lost. Maniakkhika then mentioned his hope of seeing the Buddha visiting his kingdom of Kelaniya if the Buddha were to visit the country again.

The Buddha remained silent, indicating that he accepted King Maniakkhika’s request. The Rajayatana tree was planted on that very spot as a sacred memorial by Maniakkhika, and the gem-studded throne was given back to the naga kings as an object to venerate. The Buddha told the nagas that since he had used these two items, the Rajayatana tree and the gem-studded throne, venerating them would bring blessings and happiness. The Buddha then returned to Jetavana Grove. The Nagadeepa (Rajayatana) Stupa was constructed by King Mahodara and Chulodhara to enshrine the gem-studded throne, and it became a site of Buddhist veneration ever since.

In 1931 Venerable Randombe Somatissa Nayake Thero from Ambalangoda visited Nagadeepa and observed some ruins, which he identified as the stupa constructed over the gem-studded throne on which Lord Buddha had preached. Venerable Randombe then reconstructed the stupa with the support of donors.

Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara

Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara marks the place where the Buddha was supposed to have stayed during his visit to the small island. On one side of the road is an ancient Bodhi tree, a Rajayatana tree (a banyan tree), a mural depicting Buddha’s visit and the Naga Pokuna while on the other is the silver-painted (Rajayatana) stupa and the main shrine room. The main shrine room is situated behind the Rajayatana Stupa.

Naga Pokuna near the entrance depicting naga king Mucalinda protecting the Buddha from the elements after his enlightenment.

On the left side of the road where an ancient Bodhi tree, a Rajayatana (banyan) tree, a mural depicting Buddha’s visit and the Naga Pokuna are located.

A mural depicting Buddha’s visit to Nagadeepa.

A Rajayatana (banyan) tree in the compound of the vihara (on the left), and the ancient bodhi tree with a golden fence around it on the right.

A small building behind the stupa where another representation of the gem-studded throne is placed.

A close-up of the gem-studded throne.

Rajayatana Stupa

According to Buddhist history, this stupa was constructed to enshrine the gem-studded throne that almost caused a war between two naga kings, and was later offered to Lord Buddha by the kings after he settled the dispute. The Rajayatana Stupa is painted in silver due to the stupa’s limestone structure, and its close proximity to the sea. This means that it is constantly subjected to a salty breeze, and thus the silver paint protects the structure.

The silver-painted Rajayatana Stupa.

You can see the main shrine (white) building on the left side of this picture.

A close-up of the stupa.

Ancient Bodhi Tree

This Bodhi tree is from one of the eight original saplings from the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi in the Mahamewna Gardens, Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is said to be the right-wing (southern) branch from the historical Sri Maha Bodhi Tree at Bodhgaya in India under which Lord Buddha attained enlightenment. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi was planted in 288 BCE, and is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known date of planting.

An ancient Bodhi tree with a golden fence surrounding it.

The Main Shrine Room

This main shrine room is situated behind the Rajayathana Stupa and was constructed using traditional Jaffna architectural style. The shrine room contains several Buddha images, as well as wall paintings.

Pilgrims waiting for their turn to visit the main shrine room.

Entrance of the main shrine room.

One of the images of the Buddha in the main shrine room.

One of the images of the Buddha in the main shrine room.

One of the images of the Buddha in the main shrine room.

One of the images of the Buddha in the main shrine room.

Beautiful painting under the dome of the main shrine room.

Virtual Tour of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara

Click on the picture below for a virtual tour of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Visiting Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara

Address:
Nagadeepa Rajamaha Viharaya
Nainativu Island, Sri Lanka
Phone: +94 21 3 213356
Entrance fee: LKR 500
Opening hours: 6:00AM – 6:00PM

Accommodation

Visitors to the temple are recommended to stay in the larger nearby city, Jaffna where there is a greater choice of accommodation available. Below are just some of the several places available. It is recommended that you do further research to find accommodation that is suitable for your needs.

1. Green Grass Hotel
The hotel offers affordable comfort and modern facilities such as outdoor swimming pool and a garden restaurant.

Address:
33 Aseervatham Lane, Hospital Rd.
Jaffna 40000, Sri Lanka
Phone: +94 21 2 224385
Website: http://jaffnagreengrass.com

2. Jaffna Heritage Hotel
The hotel is located at the heart of the city and provides “a subtle hint of Colonial splendour.”

Address:
Temple Road, Nallur
Jaffna 40000, Sri Lanka
Phone: +94 21 2 222424
Website: http://www.jaffnaheritage.com

How To Get There

The boats to Nagadeepa (Nainativu) leave from Punkudutivu, 30 km off the mainland, reached by a series of causeways connecting it with other islands off the Jaffna peninsula in Sri Lanka. You can travel using your private vehicle to reach Kurrikaduwan (Kurrikattuwan), the jetty on Punkudutivu Island. Public and private buses also run regularly from Jaffna to Punkudutivu, and boat crossings are timed to leave just after the bus arrives.

Location of Nagadeepa (Nainativu) island in the northern part of Sri Lanka.

Location of Nagadeepa (Nainativu) and other islands in the district of Jaffna.

From Kurrikaduwan (Kurrikattuwan) on Punkudutivu Island, boat services to islands such as Nagadeepa (Nainativu), Delft, Analaitivu and Eluvaitivu are managed and operated by the Sri Lankan Navy. Make sure to check the destination and the departure times of the boats before you board. Nainativu is only a 15-minute boat ride from Kurrikaduwan (Kurrikattuwan).

There are two jetties on Nainativu, one at the ancient Hindu shrine of Sri Nagapooshani Amman and another at Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara. If most of the passengers are Hindus, the boat stops at the former and if most are Buddhists it stops at the latter.

Departure point at Kurrikaduwan (Kurrikattuwan) Jetty on the Punkudutivu island.

Nagadeepa (Nainativu) pier, heading towards the entrance of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Nagadeepa (Nainativu) pier, heading towards the entrance of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Approaching the entrance to Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Approaching the entrance to Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Entrance to the compound of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Nagadeepa / Nainativu Island: Unifying Communities

Watch this short excerpt to catch a glimpse of Nagadeepa (Nainativu) island, home to the Buddhist shrine Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara and the Hindu shrine Nagapooshani Amman Temple.

Or view the video on the server at:
https://video.tsemtulku.com/videos/Nagadeepa01.mp4

Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara on Nainativu Island

See this short excerpt of travelling to Nagadeepa from the Kurikattuwan (Kurikadduwan) Jetty on the island of Punkudutivu, featuring attractions at Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Or view the video on the server at:
https://video.tsemtulku.com/videos/Nagadeepa02.mp4

Boat Ride to Nainativu

A short excerpt of a boat ride to Nainativu and a quick look at the compound of Nagadeepa Purana Raja Maha Vihara.

Or view the video on the server at:
https://video.tsemtulku.com/videos/Nagadeepa03.mp4

 
Sources:

• http://mahavamsa.org/mahavamsa/original-version/01-visit-thatagatha/
• http://www.nagadeepaviharaya.lk/
• http://www.lankalibrary.com/heritage/naga.htm
• http://www.nation.lk/edition/jeans/item/38542-nagadeepa-viharaya.html
• http://www.sundaytimes.lk/110529/Plus/plus_06.html
• http://amazinglanka.com/wp/nagadeepa/
• https://tour.lk/sri_lanka/jaffna/attractions.php?name=nagadeepa_purana_vihara
• http://imagessrilanka.blogspot.my/2013/02/scenes-at-nagadeepa-vihara-sri-lanka.html

 
For more interesting links:

• Wonderful Sri Lanka
• 8 Holy Buddhist Pilgrimage Sites – Part 1
• Apology to the Naga Realm
• Life of Buddha in stunning paintings
• Magadha Sangmo (须摩提女)
• Discovering Yourself: A Teaching on Karma & Mindstream
• Tsongkhapa’s Way of Compassion
• What is a Blessing?
• 10 Articles on Stupas (contest)

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