Baba and Nyonya
Background
The Baba Nyonya, also known as Peranakan or Straits-Chinese, are the descendants of Chinese immigrants who married and assimilated into local communities in Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. The number of Chinese migrants increased when the tin mines in Kesang, Johor, opened and started operating. With Malacca as its centre, the Baba Nyonya culture has grown and developed into a rich identity of its own. The Baba Nyonya community is different from the ethnic Chinese communities, but they still consider themselves as Chinese.
“Baba” is an honorific term used for Straits-Chinese men, while “Nyonya” is used for the women. Most of them have lived along the Straits of Malacca for generations, and were mostly English-educated. Due to their background, they could speak two or more languages, and often acted as middlemen for the Chinese and British, and for the Malay and Chinese.
An origin myth of the Baba Nyonya
One of the myths or stories about the origins of the Baba Nyonyas can be found at the Humanity blog. In short, the myth claims that Zheng He of China visited Malacca in the 15th century and gifted Sultan Mansur Shah, then Sultan of Malacca, with Princess Hang Li Po.
Her entourage made a home for themselves in Bukit Cina and laid down the roots for the development of the Baba Nyonya culture.
The Peranakan retained most of their ethnic and religious origins (ancestor worship), but assimilated the language and culture of the Malays. They developed a unique culture and distinct foods. A lot of sources claim that the early Peranakan inter-married with the local Malay population. However, the lack of physical resemblances have also led many experts to believe that the Peranakan Chinese ethnicity has hardly [been] diluted. The Peranakan often sent their sons and daughters to China to look for spouses. Also, the religion of the local Malay population was Islam, which forbids inter-marriage with other religions without conversion first. In the early 1800s, new Chinese immigrants to the Straits Settlements bolstered the Peranakan population.
Click on image to enlarge
By the middle of the Twentieth century, most Peranakan were English educated, as a result of the British colonisation of Malaya, and the natural propensity of these people who were able to easily embrace new cultures. Because the Peranakans readily embraced English culture and education, administrative and civil service posts were often filled by prominent Straits Chinese. The interaction with the British also caused many in the community to convert to Christianity. The Peranakan community thereby became very influential in Malacca and Singapore and were known also as the King’s Chinese due to their perceived loyalty to the British Crown. Because of the interaction of the different cultures and languages that Peranakans had, up to the mid-1900s, most Peranakans were trilingual, able to converse with Chinese, Malays and the British. Common vocations were as merchants, traders, and general intermediaries between China, Malaya and the West; the latter was especially valued by the British, since the Babas also enjoyed good relations with the Malay community and served as advisors to the royal Malay courts. In fact the term “Baba” is an honorific term in Malay; probably derived from Hindi/Sanskrit [Baba: literally means grandfather or father, and is used as a term of reverence and affection for an elderly gentleman.]
http://geographyhumanity.blogspot.my/2010/04/story-of-baba-baba-nyonya.html
Culture
Baba Nyonya is the result of a marriage between a female Malay and a male Chinese. It was common for Chinese traders in the early days to marry Malay women from Peninsular Malaysia or take them as concubines. As a result, the Baba Nyonya boast a unique mix of Malay cultural characteristics. Peranakans of those days are married through arranged marriages with other Peranakan. Marriage in the olden days was not as easy and simple as it is now; marriage of same stature and within the same society were the standard during that time.
The Baba Nyonya community has various unique customs and traditions, especially when it comes to weddings. Marriage proposals are put into a 2-tiered lacquered basket, known as Bakul Siah, and placed into the hands of the bride’s parents by the middle-person who speaks on behalf of the proposer. Sometimes, instead of Bakul Siah, wealthy Peranakans would use beautifully embroidered gilded pagoda trays (Botekan Candi in Indonesian).
Bakul Siah and Gilded Pagoda Trays (or Botekan Candi in Indonesian)
Wedding invitations were done in red because the colour red represents happiness and harmony. The invitation cards are typically sent by a dispatcher known as “Pak Chindek”, who usually takes about six days to deliver all of them.
Their wedding ceremony is predominantly based on Chinese traditions and is one of the most fascinating and colourful wedding ceremonies in Malaysia. The highlight of the wedding would be the 12-day ceremony and banquet, called “makan tok panjang” which literally means long table feast.
Dondang Sayang
In the Chinese culture, it’s very important to hold the wedding ceremony on auspicious days and at particular times. The same holds true for the Baba Nyonyas. The auspicious days will be chosen according to the eight Chinese characters, which the Hokkiens call “pek ji”, based on one’s birth date and time. During this time, taboos are carefully and strictly observed. The marriages were mostly match-made, and the decision is made by the parents and/or elders, though the bride and groom are consulted during the process. The wedding rituals are witnessed by their ancestors, elders, and deities. Wedding items usually feature the prosperous colours of red, pink, orange, gold, and yellow, and are embroidered with unique motifs to establish a good marriage. Like the Chinese, they believe that it’s auspicious to have things that come in pairs, which is why there is usually two of each wedding item.
Food
Some popular Nyonya dishes
The Baba Nyonya culture is the result of the acculturation development, which occurs when a culture accepts and assimilates foreign customs and elements. The similarities between the Baba Nyonya and Malay cultures can be seen in food and clothing. Many Nyonya dishes are similar to Malay cooking, like, “bubur cha cha”, “nasi kerabu”, “sambal”, and “embuk-embuk”.
Influenced by the Malay culture, the Nyonya cuisine uses the same common Malay spices. An example of a Nyonya dish is Chicken Kapitan, which is a dry chicken curry. Nyonya Laksa is a highly popular dish in Malaysia, and can be found in Malacca as well as Singapore. Pongteh is also another unique dish of the Baba Nyonya community. The primary ingredients of this savoury dish are shallots, fermented bean sauce, chicken, and black mushroom.
As for dessert, there are some very famous traditional Nyonya cakes (kueh) like Kueh Kochi, Lepat Kacang, Apom Balik, Kueh Bongkong, Pulot Inti, Ondeh-Ondeh, Kueh Genggang, and more. These traditional cakes are also made during festivals and celebrations.
Nyonya restaurants in Malacca:
1. Nancy’s Kitchen
Nancy’s Kitchen
Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday 11:00 – 17:30
Address: Jalan Hang Lekir off Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, Malacca
Phone: +606 283 6099
2. Kocik Kitchen
Kocik Kitchen
Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday 11:00 – 15:00
Address: 100, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, Malacca
Tel: +6016 929 6605
3. Seri Nyonya Peranakan Restaurant
Seri Nyonya Peranakan Restaurant
Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday 12:00 – 14:30, 18:30 – 22:30
Address: Hotel Equatorial Malacca, Banda Hilir, Malacca
Tel: +606 282 8333
4. Restoran Peranakan
Restoran Peranakan
Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday 12:00 – 14:30, 18:30 – 22:00
Address: 107, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, Malacca
Tel: +606 284 5001
5. Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine
Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine
Opening Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 11:30 – 14:30, 18:00 – 22:00
Address: 75, Jalan Melaka Raya, Taman Melaka Raya, Malacca
Tel: +606 286 8819
Language
The Baba Nyonyas speak Baba Malay, which is a creole language that contains words from the Malay and Hokkien languages. Due to their ability to quickly adapt to local cultures, most of the Baba Nyonyas can speak two or more languages and dialects, like Baba Malay, English, and Chinese.
Today, the Baba Malay creole is a dying language that is mostly used by the older generation. Many of the younger generation do not know how to speak it anymore and often use English or Chinese as their primary language.
Clothing
The traditional clothing of a Nyonya are the Baju Panjang (Long Dress) and Baju Kebaya. The Baju Panjang is usually worn by the older Nyonyas while the younger Nyonyas prefer the shorter and more colourful Kebaya. It’s worn with a Sarong (Batik wrap-around skirt) and 3 kerosang (brooches). Their beaded slippers, called the Kasot Manek-Manek, are skillfully and patiently made by hand and can feature tiny multi-faceted glass-cut beads (Manek Potong) from Bohemia.
The traditional Kasot Manek-Manek mostly floral and oriental themed, influenced by the batik sarong and Peranakan porcelain. Mostly, they were made into flats or bedroom slippers, but, since the 1930s, heels were gradually added to the footwear.
Baju panjang
Sharing similarities with the Malay Kebaya, the Kebaya Nyonya is traditionally made of “kasa rubia” fabric (a sheer cotton-like fabric) or printed cotton. Kebayas made from “kasa rubia” are embroidered with intricate flora and fauna designs with “kerawang” borders (floral scalloped borders). Traditional Kebayas also comes “tebok lobang” a line a tiny holes running on each side of the kebaya, from the shoulders to the hem to accentuate the wearer’s feminine form. As the Kebaya is sheer and almost transparent, a camisole or “baju dalam” is worn underneath for decency. Bejewelled “kerosang” are used to fasten the front opening of the Kebaya.
The Baju Panjang is similar to the Malay’s Baju Kurung but has an opening in front similar to the Kebaya. A set of “kerosang” is used as fastening. As the Baju Panjang is typically worn by the older Nyonyas, the colours and patterns of the fabric used are muted. The length of the Baju Panjang’s outer coat reaches the knees, unlike the Kebaya that stops at mid-hips. The inner wear is a white long sleeved blouse with a high collar.
Sarong
A sarong is a long length of cotton fabric that’s often wrapped around the waist. It’s mainly worn by men and women in South East Asian countries like Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei. The fabric woven with checkered patterns or plaid are favoured by the men, while the ladies prefer floral designs. Nyonyas prefer their sarongs adorned with delicate floral designs such as the peonies, roses, morning glories and chrysanthemums. It is not unusual to see sarongs with phoenix and peacocks designs.
Kerosang
A kerosang is often made out of metal, such as silver and gold, and decorated with gemstones. It can be used as an ornament, but, most of the time, it’s used to secure the position of clothing, such as the baju panjang.
Religion
The Baba Nyonyas have adapted to Chinese belief systems, such as Chinese Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism, as well as Christianity. Just like the Chinese, they, too, observe the Lunar New Year, the Lantern Festival, and many other Chinese celebrations. Their culture is also strongly influenced by the British, Dutch, Portuguese, Malay, and Indonesian.
Just like any other culture, Baba Nyonyas strongly believe in the observation of pantang larang (taboos), especially within the older generations. There are some pantang larang that were deemed too stiff and complicated. Today, in keeping up with the modern times, most of the Baba Nyonyas no longer practise these pantang larang.
The Baba Nyonyas also believe in shamans (a practitioner of magic). For example, when a baby cries non-stop, they will seek help from shamans as they believe that an evil spirit is at work. Another taboo involves forbidding pregnant women from leaving their house at dusk as they believe that this is when demons and evil spirits are active. It is also said that the blood of a pregnant woman attracts Pontianaks (women who died during childbirth and turned into spirits). When a pregnant woman has to travel, they will always bring items that are made of metal, like a knife, as they believe that metal scares the evil spirits away.
Museum
Cultural and historical items from the Baba Nyonya culture are displayed at the Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum, the Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum, and other historical establishments found in the neighbourhood of Jonker Street and Heeren Street in Malacca. Other notable Peranakan places of interest are: the Pinang Peranakan Mansion in Penang, Malaysia; and the Peranakan Museum, Baba House, and the Intan Museum in Singapore. Exhibits include food, furniture, and even traditional clothes.
Free weekly shows featuring Baba Nyonya and traditional Chinese cultural performances can also be found at Jonker Street in Malacca. Other Peranakan traditional collections, such as batik and bead-works, can also be found in museums outside of South East Asia. The Honolulu Museum of Art and Australian Museum are known to exhibit such collections.
1. Pinang Peranakan Mansion
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
Address: 29, Church St, Georgetown, 10200 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Phone: +60 4-264 2929
Monday to Sunday including Public Holidays from 9:30 am to 5 pm
Adults: RM20.00; Children(below 6): Free
Email: rmhbaba@streamyx.com
2. Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum
Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum
Address: 48-50, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +60 6-283 1273
Daily Tour Times: 10am – 1:00pm (last morning tour 12noon); 2pm – 5:00pm (last evening tour 4pm)
Extended Hour on Weekends: Fri, Sat, Sun (last evening tour 5:00pm)
Adults: RM 8; Children (aged 5 to 12): RM 4
Email: admin@babanyonyamuseum.com
3. Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum
Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum
Address: Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, Taman Kota Laksamana, 75200 Melaka, Malaysia
Phone: +60 4-2642929
Opening Days: 7 days a week, 9.30am-5.30pm
Adults: RM20/person; Children: RM10 (below 6 year-old: Free)
Filmography
Films that featured the Baba Nyonya culture
In the 1950s, the Baba Nyonya culture was featured in several Hong Kong films, such as: Niangre/ Nyonya (娘惹，1952), Fengyu Niuche Shui/ Rainstorm in China town (风雨牛车水，1956), Niangre yu Baba/ Nyonya and Baba (娘惹与峇峇，1956), and Niangre Zhi lian/ Love with a Malaysian Girl (娘惹之恋，1969).
In Malaysia, the popularity of the comedy drama show entitled “Baba Nyonya” turned it into the longest-running TV series in the country. The TV show ran from the late 1990s till 2000, with 509 episodes in total, and earned a place in the Malaysian Book of Records.
“Baba Nyonya” TV series
Architecture
The Baba Nyonyas have a very unique style of architecture that brings together Western and Eastern components, like elaborated plaster works and ceramic artwork. They are particularly renowned for their unique colonial bungalows. In most of the houses, you’ll notice a distinctive infusion of artworks from both the Malay and Chinese cultures, which is definitely the only one of its kind.
The architectural styles of Baba-Nyonya properties in Malaysia are usually associated with the Straits Eclectic Style. The Straits Eclectic Shophouses started appearing in the mid to late 20th century (1940 – 1990). In the early 20th century, shophouses in the Straits Settlements began to incorporate full-length French windows with a pair of full-length timber shutters, an arched or rectangular transom over the window opening, pilasters of classical orders, and plaster renderings. Reinforced concrete was later used to allow wider roof overhangs and more elaborate cantilevered brackets which sprung from above the pilasters.
Shophouses
A shophouse, or row house, has two or more storeys. The first floor is usually used for commercial purposes, such as warehouses or sundry shops, and the second floor served as living quarters. The shophouse is not a standalone building. Like terrace houses, it is one of the several separate units that share dividing walls. One building can be made up of any number of shophouses.
The shophouse is easily found in the urban areas of Malaysia. Some people may prefer to live in these houses with no intent of opening a business. The building itself will have a huge entrance with a timber bar locked into the door head, and louvred panel windows. A 5-foot way (kaki lima), or a walkway with veranda, is one of the unique features of this particular house. This covered 5-foot walkway commonly features an arched opening that joins one house with the rest of the street front. This standout feature has become an instantly recognisable characteristic of a Baba Nyonya house.
Sources:
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peranakan
- http://redfame.com/journal/index.php/ijsss/article/viewFile/651/592
- https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/峇峇娘惹
- http://geographyhumanity.blogspot.my/2010/04/story-of-baba-baba-nyonya.html
For more interesting information:
- Thaipusam – The Festival of Lord Murugan
- 25 Mouthwatering Dishes Of Malaysia
- A Muhibbah Celebration: The Lantern Festival Charity Bazaar
- Cleaning Up Bentong for Malaysia Day
- Traditional Clothes of Malaysia
- Indians in Malaysia
- Guan Yin Day
- The Dragon Boat Festival: A Fusion of Traditional and Modern Culture
- Gawai Dayak – The Celebration of Bountiful Harvest
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Thank you for the beautiful and historical sharing of Baba Nyonya community in Malaysia. As we know this group is small and their journey begins first at Malacca, then continued to Penang, Singapore, and Indonesia.
The intermarriage between Chinese and Malay except formed a unique lifestyle and also created out a new culture, customs, festivals, tradition foods clothing, design and entertainment.
May this rich culture and colourful tradition be preserved and practiced by the younger generation, and do hope this special heritage will live everlasting with us.
https://bit.ly/3lbHmCK
This unique group of Malaysians have seamlessly assimilated the cultures of the Chinese and the local Malays particularly into their elaborately embroidered attire and very meticulously .
The Baba Nyonyas have a very unique style of architecture that brings together Western and Eastern components,The community it self is also unique and rich in customs and traditions.Thank you for sharing a beautiful article.
The Baba Nyonya culture, food, and architecture have been renowned for being rich and colorful. It is unique because it blends specialties of the Chinese and Malay culture into one and cannot be found anywhere else except mainly in Malacca and perhaps Singapore. It is a clear sign how the racial and cultural difference was not an issue among the multiracial residence of the Malaya. Acceptance and integration were widely practiced, and as a result, we have a distinctively beautiful culture to add to our heritage. Thank you for this article.
The Peranakan Culture has certainly contributed to the richness of the Malaysian culture and is a unique legacy within Malaysian Society. It is an indication of the pragmatic nature of the Chinese people, that once they knew that most of them won’t be returning to China, they adapted other cultures and created a new one.
Also I must say that Malay people, are equally kind to accept Chinese who came from China, and intermarried with the Chinese, there was some form of integration of the Chinese from mainland China with the local Malays at that time. I am glad that both the Malay people and the Chinese people of a bygone era contributed to a new subculture.
I was also surprised that movies had been on the Peranakan people, it was before my time. I also recall there was a theatrical play called ‘Emily of Emerald Hill’ and it is a monologue, over the past 15 years or so, it has garnered tremendous appreciation and critical acclaimed for all the time it has been playing in theatres. Played by 7 women and even a man, the play revolves a charming Peranakan woman, Emily Gan, who evolves from frightened young bride to a strong-willed matriarch.
That is such a beautiful culture, so very Malaysian. It is strange but nice to hear two Chinese people conversing with each other in Bahasa Malaysia, but that is quite normal Baba style.
Their traditional clothing, architecture and furnishing are really colourful and ornate and their cuisine is to die for! Definitely one of my favourite foods. This is Malaysia’s best kept secret, fortunately or unfortunately. I wish Malaysia’s Baba culture and cuisine could be marketed worldwide and become well-known.
The Baba Nyonya, also known as Peranakan or Straits-Chinese, are the descendants of Chinese immigrants who married and assimilated into local communities in Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. This unique group of Malaysians have seamlessly assimilated the cultures of the Chinese and the local Malays particularly into their elaborately embroidered attire and very meticulously and elaborately prepared and delicious cuisine. To me this is the most wondrous feature of the Nonya and Baba culture here.
The Baba Nonya community has also developed various unique customs and traditions pertaining to weddings. Take for exmple the Marriage Proprosal .Marriage proposals are put into a 2-tiered lacquered basket, known as Bakul Siah, and placed into the hands of the bride’s parents by the middle-person who speaks on behalf of the proposer. Sometimes, instead of Bakul Siah, wealthy Peranakans would use beautifully embroidered gilded pagoda trays. Beautiful! Indeed, just on the occasion of a wedding alone there is an array of very elaborate and interesting cultural practices so unique to this group of people!
The Nonya Baba people have also evolved a special dialect for communication, which has incorporated words from the Chinese Hokkien dialect and the Malay Language. It will be sad if this unique culture were lost to posterity .
Thank you for sharing this beautiful culture with the world. The culture and traditions were slowly dying off but in recent times have seen a revival. It is good to see all these beautiful pictures of a grand culture. There have been very many books written of the Peranakans tracing their history from centuries ago from the Peranakans of Singapore to Malacca and Penang. All these are related to the Peranakans of Indonesia and Thailand specifically Phuket.
Thank you again for this article bringing interest to the traditions and cultures of the Peranakan.
There are still many people in Malaysia did not truly understand about the Baba Nyonya culture.
Thank you Rinpoche for this beautiful information on the rich,colourful, unique and special heritage.
May this beautiful culture be preserved and practiced by the younger generation and remain with us for a long time.
Thank you Rinpoche.
Growing up in the melting pot of Malaysia, most of us would have experienced and shared another ethnic group’s culture to a certain extent. For many, we would be familiar with the variety of nyonya kuih, and perhaps had great moments watching Bibik Kim Neo on national TV in the 1990s. For those growing up in Penang, the distinctive taste of taste of Jeu Hoo Char (a finely shredded mixture of stir-fried carrots, onions, mushrooms, pork and cuttlefish), Nasi Kunyit, and Asam Laksa can’t be found anywhere else in the world.
Thank you for this article featuring the unique culture of the Baba Nyonyas who adopted Malay customs and social practices while retaining Chinese traditions and religious beliefs, and also listing where we can experience what I think is one of the most significant legacy, Nyonya cuisine, as well as the museums. The older generation of Baba-Nyonya community had a very rich and unique culture, as well as refined and colourful characteristics. I highly recommend visits to the museums to see for yourself the architecure, clothing, things they own and use in their home to experience and get to know this unique culture.
My mum was a Peranakan or best known as the Baba Nyonya ethnic mentioned here. Their customs is a fusion of the Malay and the Chinese customs which created many unique styles and fashion, they even spoke in Malay mixed with Hokkien and English, so it was in their own unique style. Only another peranakan would understand them. They spoke so fast like a bullet train, it was extremely hard to catch on and they were many slangs which we did not understand. All me and my sister knew was when my mother was really is pissy mood, she would start talking in Malay, and that’s when you know, you don’t want to mess with her.
I guess the most unforgettable creations are their beautiful hand embroidery clothes and beaded shoes and of course let’s not forgetsome very unique and delicious food! Their cuisine is a dying art and I wish I had take the interest to learn from my mum and aunts when they were around. I was way too young then to cook and did not appreciate spicy food. All I know is to make any authentic Nyonya food, it take a whole day, sometimes some preparations starts as early as a day before because EVERYTHING literally must be made from scratch, that’s their secret and that is why they taste so extra special and delicious. No other Malaysian food can beat the Peranakan cuisine ursting with taste cooked in very refined style. Everything must be so precise, chopped up in specific ways, they would say ‘halus’ or finely cut/chopped.
This is indeed a very interesting culture which I myself find quite amazing. This ethnic group is slowly disappearing as many of them marries other ethnics, so I’m not surprise one day this ethnic group will be gone, and along with it, their unique customs and style, unless it is well preserved now. Thank you for sharing it here, at least now some information about the Peranakan will be saved/preserved through this blog. Rinpoche’s blog is becoming more and more diverse and serves as an information hub! Thank you Rinpoche.
Thank you Rinpoche for sharing this information about Baba and Nyonya. It is very interesting to learn about this cultural. I was born in Malacca and therefore have friends who are baba and nyonya. They speak fluent Malays but in other slang.
I love they food especially the various nyonya kuihs. We in Malaysia are so fortunate to be able to experience and know so many people of different races and cultures.
Thank you Rinpoche for this beautiful write up on Baba and Nyoya culture. I find it very interesting because of the mixed marriage culture in the early days. And the delicious nyoya food and delicacies which my family also loves to cook. My beloved Grandma and Mum cooks wonderful nyonya food. And my uncle used to make and sell Nyoya kuih. Me and my sis Vivian used to help with his kuih business. Really miss his best nyoya kuih like ang ku,rempah udang,kuih kochi and so on. Mum loves to make Acar Awak and also made for Chinese New Year.
Thank you Rinpoche for sharing such a beautiful and informative article.It will help many to understand better of the history of Baba-Nyonya .The Baba Nyonyas have a very unique style of architecture that brings together Western and Eastern components,The community it self is also unique and rich in customs and traditions,There is so much to see and know of the varies location of places of interests.example.. Heritage Museum Straits Chinese Jewellery Museum both in Malacca and Pinang Peranakan Mansion in Penang.
The traditional clothing of the Baba Nyonya includes the Baju Kurung is just as beautiful as our Chinese traditional Cheongsum which i love wearing it.