(By Tsem Rinpoche)

Temples in the Clouds

The serene and majestic Mount Fanjing (or Fanjing Shan 梵凈山), its peaks towering above the cloud banks, is steeped in Buddhist lore and tradition. ‘Fanjing’ (梵凈) means ‘Buddhist tranquillity’. In another explanation, the mountain received its name “Fanjing”, as an abbreviation of Fantianjingtu, a Buddhist term which means “Brahma’s Pure Land”. Mount Fanjing is also called Yuejing (Moon Mirror) Mountain because the temple at its peak can be seen reflected on the surrounding smooth rock on a clear moonlit night.

The world’s largest gold and jade Maitreya Buddha statue

Mount Fanjing is part of the Wuling Range in south-western China’s Guizhou Province. Its highest point stands 2,572 meters above sea level and the misty summit is the highest of the entire range. For centuries, both the mountain and the surrounding jungles have been a sanctuary for Buddhist masters seeking solitude in nature. Numerous Buddhist temples are spread across the peaks and slopes, most dedicated to Maitreya and Buddha Shakyamuni. Maitreya, or The Next Buddha, is the patron Bodhisattva of Mount Fanjing.

The region’s reputation as a land sacred to Buddhism can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), but thousands of adherents still flock here to worship every year. This popularity stems not only from its rich Buddhist heritage but also from the diverse, unique and well-preserved ecological system. In 2018, Fanjing Shan was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Regional Topography and Ecology

Located at the juncture of the three counties of Yinjiang, Jiangkou and Songtao in northeastern Guizhou Province, Mount Fanjing has long been the best known of all the peaks of the Wuling Mountain Range.

The Fanjing Shan National Nature Reserve was established here in 1978 with the approval of the government of Guizhou Province. The reserve covers an area of 567 sq. kilometres (219 sq. miles) and is dominated by primary vegetation. Over 4,000 species of plants and almost 3,000 distinct animal species call it home. In 1986, it was included in UNESCO’s ‘Man and Biosphere’ Protection Network.

Some of these plants and animals are unique to Mount Fanjing. One of the most intriguing plant species is the dove tree, named for the shape of the flowers which it bears. This tree and the Chinese tulip are among 15 species of flora on Mount Fanjing that are currently listed as endangered.

The fauna on the mountain is just as interesting but, unfortunately, also faces the same conservation pressures. Several species of animals found in the jungles here are on China’s list of protected animals, including the giant salamander and the Guizhou golden monkey. The latter is found only in this region.

Eight major mountain streams cascade down the slopes of Mount Fanjing. They branch off into numerous smaller brooks, several waterfalls and countless tranquil pools. The flow of water has shaped the terrain into an undulating landscape of cliffs and precipices, towers and mounds. Some of the rock formations are so spectacular and unique that they have become tourist attractions in their own right.

Openings in the mountain rock, some yawning and others pursed, lead into caves of all sizes. Inside, there are calming ethereal scenes marked by stalactites and stalagmites. Silence reigns inside most of them but there are others that are regaled by the dripping of water emerging cool and pure from within the heart of the massif. It is easy to imagine ancient sages seeking solace and serenity within the embrace of the grey and brown rock.

Fanjing Shan has three main peaks: the Old Golden Summit, New Golden Summit (also known as the Hongyun Golden Summit) and Fenghuang (Phoenix) Summit. The Hongyun Golden Summit is the most popular location to view the floating sea of clouds and mist.

A trail of over 8,000 stone steps leads from the foot of the mountain to these peaks. The hike along the windy mountainous road is a pleasurable assimilation into the sense of peace that such holy places embody. It can also be taxing, though, and pilgrims seeking a less strenuous way to align themselves with the sacred vibes can use the cable car that takes visitors three-quarters of the way to the top.

The Buddhist History of Fanjing Mountain

In its heyday during the Qing Dynasty, the mountain was home to 4 Royal temples and 48 active temples but only a few of these remain today. The two main temples – Shakyamuni Temple and Mile (Maitreya) Temple – are located atop separate crags on Xinjinding (New Golden Peak).

It was during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) that the mountain came into prominence as a destination for Buddhist pilgrimage. Fanjing Shan became a Buddhist retreat and even hosted a monastery. The main temple, Jinding Temple was built on Jinding Peak (Golden Peak).

In 1618, Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty issued an edict to rebuild Jinding Temple on Fanjing Mountain as a mark of his respect for Buddhism. He also had a stele erected near Water Dripping Cave not far from the temple bearing the following text: “Ancient Buddhist sites are on Fanjing Mountain, the father of all other renowned mountains”.

During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), 48 Buddhist temples were built on Mount Fanjing. Many were destroyed but later rebuilt and restored. Unfortunately, the monastery was repeatedly pillaged in the centuries that followed, even as late as 1940.

It is fortunate that after the mindless destruction of religious symbols that lasted until the 1980s, the government has now changed tack. There has been considerable investment in an effort to restore this revered mountain to its glory days. The most important temples and shrines have been reconstructed and refurbished while Buddhist statues and monuments have been erected along the hiking trail.

While Mount Fanjing may not enjoy the fame and veneration of bygone days, its burgeoning popularity as a tourist destination has the potential to attract a new generation of worshippers to the Buddha’s message.

What to See and Do at Mt. Fanjing

Mount Fanjing has today become one of the premier tourist attractions in the region, aided considerably by its 2018 designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While most visitors give themselves a day to explore and discover the wealth of sights and attractions on its slopes, this is barely enough.

Part of the reason is the hike involved (even if you use the cable car for part of the journey) because the attractions are spread over a large area. Here, we have picked out the sights and experiences that we believe absolutely should not be missed because they have become almost synonymous with the mountain itself.

Old Golden Summit

The highest peak of Mount Fanjing is known as the Old Golden Summit. Atop this peak is a temple dedicated to Buddha Dipamkara. The rock of which this natural wonder is composed is so smooth and reflective that it is possible to see the temple’s reflection in it on moonlit nights. It is the source of Mount Fanjing’s other name, Yuejing (Moon Mirror).

Red Cloud Golden Summit

Dated to be between 2 million and 65 million years old, the second-highest of Mount Fanjing’s peaks is shaped like a thumb giving the ‘thumbs-up’ sign. The structure rises 94 metres out of the rock and has a diameter of approximately 40 metres. 100 steep steps lead up to the twin peaks, just metres apart and each with a temple to crown it. The two temples are connected by a stone bridge across a 1,000-metre chasm. They lie approximately 150 metres below the Old Golden Summit but offer views no less spectacular.

Mushroom Rock

Not quite as mushroom-shaped as the name might suggest, Mushroom Rock instead looks like a smaller, flatter rock placed at the top edge of a longer, thinner column. Eroded as it has been by the elements, the entire structure may seem like it could collapse at any time but it has actually looked out upon the world in this position for close to a billion years. Its tallest point is barely 20 metres lower than the Red Cloud Golden Summit.

Cheng En Temple

Cheng En Temple is one of the four Royal Temples of the mountain complex, built by decree and maintained for centuries by successive rulers. It was constructed during the reign of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) but was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The temple is instantly recognisable for its scarlet walls and black tiles.

Huguo Temple

Another of the Royal Temples, Huguo is located at the start of the western approach to Mount Fanjing. It was constructed as a massive complex and covers an area of over 3,000 sq. metres. Within this area still, stand six wooden buildings from a bygone era. Its high altitude gives visitors an expansive view of the countryside amidst the clouds.

Fleecy Ridge

The Divine works in mysterious ways and sometimes you only have to open your eyes to see the signs. From Fleecy Ridge, the rolling hills and mountains form the outline of a reclining Buddha that is miles long, a sight that has long been revered by visitors to the mountain. This vision is only visible from the western approach to the mountain and is officially known as the Sleeping Buddha Ten Thousand Metres Long.

Gold and Jade Maitreya Buddha Statue

Amid all the ancient temples and natural wonders is a relatively new attraction – the gold and jade Maitreya statue. Unveiled in 2010, it sits inside the Buddhist Culture Court at the foot of the mountain. The statue stands five metres tall and is constructed of 250 kilograms of gold and jade, and inlaid with thousands of diamonds and pearls. This makes it the largest gold Maitreya statue in the world.

Choosing the Right Trail

The entire Mount Fanjing trail consists of over 8,000 steps and there are another 1,000 steep steps to the Old Golden Summit. There are two approaches, one from the south, which gives you the option of using a cable car, and the other from the west, which is less popular because it can only be tackled on foot.

West Route

This route begins at the Huguo Temple Gate with a 6.5 km winding route on which only approved buses are allowed to travel. The road ends at Cotton Ridge Station, which is the best place on the range to take in the Ten Thousand Metre Long Sleeping Buddha. From this point, it is a 7 km hike to the Golden Summit, taking in views of Black Alley along the way.

South Route

The south route starts at Black Bay River Gate at the foot of Mount Fanjing. The 9.5 km route rises gently into the mountain towards Fish Col Cableway Station, passing Old Mountain Gate, Guanyin Waterfall and Buddha Pavilion along the way. As with the start of the west route, only authorised vehicles may travel on it. The cableway ride takes you directly to Summit Cableway Station and the ascent takes about 20 minutes. Hikers take a 5 km journey climbing 6,600 steps to get to this point, which is the gateway to the renowned peaks of Mount Fanjing.

Intrepid visitors may consider ascending via one route and descending via the other, enjoying a comprehensive tour of all the visit-worthy sites on the mountain.

Admission: CNY110 (Mar to Nov); CNY90 (Dec to Feb). Entry is free for Buddhist clergy, the disabled and seniors above 60 years of age. Students get half-price entry. Remember to bring the necessary paperwork if you want to claim ticket concessions.

Cableway tickets cost CNY10 each way but are free for children less than 1.1 m tall. Official Fanjing Shan guided tours (in Chinese) are offered at CNY160 per person. Some external operators offer bilingual tours.

Opening Hours: 08:00 – 19:00 (Mar to Nov); 8:00 to 18:00 (Dec to Feb). No ticket sales after 16:00. There is no guest accommodation on the mountain itself.

Getting There: You can get to Yuping by train from Guiyang. Huaihua (3hours, 157 km) – Tongren (1.5hours, 50 km) – Jiangkou (2.5hours, 100 km) – Yinjiang (1.5hours, 40 km) – Fanjing Shan.

The top of Fanjing Mountain Buddhist Culture Court

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