A beautiful image of a temple in Kushinagar

(By Tsem Rinpoche)

Why Go on Pilgrimage?

One foot in front of the other, time after time, over hours, over days, over weeks. From the narrow glacial passes of the mighty Himalayas to the arid lands of Saudi Arabia and Israel, and from the foothills of France to towering peaks in China, the pilgrim walks on driven by a love for the Divine.

The act of pilgrimage has always been an important aspect of organised religion. Arduous journeys, sometimes in bare feet, battling the desire for respite within and the elements without, tap into a part of our being that transcends the physical. It is always more a spiritual exercise regardless how taxing it may be on our mortal bodies.

In Buddhism, it is believed that immense spiritual energy remains at holy sites where the Buddha or other holy beings resided, or where great mahasiddhas (Sanskrit: mahasiddha ‘great adept’) had performed enlightened actions. The pilgrim receives powerful blessings simply by his or her presence at these locations as the divine energy of the Universe plants spiritual seeds into the mind stream and opens up merits from past lives.

Many practising Buddhists recognise these merits and their significance. They journey to sacred sites infused with holy energies to gain blessings and also to create the causes to meet future Buddhas and receive their teachings.

Buddha Shakyamuni Himself had recommended sacred pilgrimage for future practitioners. Before He passed into Mahaparinirvana (Sanskrit: mahaparinirvana; Final Nirvana after death), He advised pious disciples to visit four places for inspiration after He was gone:

1. Lumbini, where He was born;
2. Bodhgaya, where He attained Supreme Enlightenment;
3. Deer Park in Sarnath, where He preached the First Sermon; and
4. Kusinara (now known as Kushinagar), where He passed into Mahaparinirvana.

The significance of these sites is further strengthened by Buddhist scriptures which tell us that the Buddhas of the past and the future ages would again appear here to perform enlightened deeds.

Whom might you meet on your pilgrimage? What might you discover? What path might you uncover? Here, we explore the various sacred sites for pilgrims to visit, to connect with the energies of holy beings who came before them and tap into their own potential for enlightenment.

Significance of Kushinagar

Buddha Shakyamuni gave three reasons as to why He had chosen Kushinagar (in today’s northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh) to pass away:

1. It was the proper venue for teaching the Maha-Sudassana Sutra (Story of the Great King of Glory).
2. Subhadda, whom Buddha Shakyamuni felt still needed to be given teachings, was there. Subhadda consequently became the last monk to be ordained by Buddha Shakyamuni; upon meditating on the teachings received directly from the Buddha, he swiftly became an arhat (perfected) and entered Parinirvana shortly before Buddha Shakyamuni.
3. Buddha Shakyamuni foresaw that His disciples would argue over the sharing of His relics. He wanted Doha, a wise and respected old Brahmin of Kushinagar, to mediate the disciples’ disagreements.

Buddha Shakyamuni’s Passing in Kushinagar

According to the scriptures, Buddha Shakyamuni thrice mentioned His ability to remain alive until the end of the aeon to Ananda, His disciple of 20 years. When Ananda failed to decipher the significance of His words, Buddha Shakyamuni decided not to prolong His life span.

Although Ananda immediately appealed to Buddha Shakyamuni to live longer upon realising the implication of His words, Ananda’s request had come too late. After about 45 years of teaching in Kushinagar on the banks of the Hiranyavati river, Buddha Shakyamuni felt He was near the end of His life. Consoling Ananda, the Buddha said,

“Don’t grieve, Ananda!

The nature of things dictates that we must leave those dear to us. Everything born contains its own cessation. I too, Ananda, am grown old and full of years. My journey is drawing to its close; I am turning 80 years of age and just as a worn-out cart can only with much additional care be made to move along, so, too, the body of the Buddha can only be kept going with much additional care”.

Then the Buddha asked Ananda to prepare a bed between 2 Sal trees with its head facing north and He lay in it. When the third quarter of the night drew close, Buddha Shakyamuni asked His disciples three times whether they had any doubts about the teachings or the disciplines. The Bhikkhus (devotees) all stood silent. Buddha Shakyamuni then spoke his last words:

“Not one, Ananda, has misgivings.

All will eventually reach enlightenment. Impermanence is inherent in all things. Work out your own freedom with diligence.”

Then, passing through the meditative absorptions, Buddha Shakyamuni entered Mahaparinirvana. It is said that the earth shook, stars shot from the heavens, the sky burst forth in flames in the ten directions and the air was filled with celestial music.

Upon His passing, Buddha Shakyamuni’s body was bathed then robed once more and wrapped in a thousand shrouds before being placed in a casket of precious substances. After seven days, during which time offerings were made by gods and men, the casket was carried to the place of cremation in a great procession and placed on a pyre of sweetly scented wood and fragrant oils.

However, several attempts to light the pyre failed. This is because Buddha Shakyamuni’s great disciple, Mahakasyapa had yet to pay his respects and was making his way, with 500 students, to pay homage to the Buddha Shakyamuni’s body. After Mahakasyapa arrived, offered prostrations and paid his respects, the pyre spontaneously burst into flames.

After the cremation, only a skull bone, teeth and the inner and outer shrouds remained. As Buddha Shakyamuni had foreseen, there was indeed a dispute regarding the distribution of the relics. The Mallas kingdom within which Kushinagar lay, claimed all the relics of Buddha Shakyamuni’s body but were met with competing claims from the representatives of the other seven kingdoms that constituted ancient India.

Brahmin Doha, assuming his role as Buddha Shakyamuni’s nominated mediator, suggested an equal, eightfold division of the relics between them. This was accepted by the kingdoms; each took their share and eight great stupas were built over them across India.

In time, these relics were again subdivided after King Ashoka decided to build 84,000 stupas. Today, they are contained in various stupas scattered across Asia.

With its rich history and significance to the Buddha’s existence, Kushinagar is today one of the favourite places for Buddhists to go on pilgrimage and is home to a number of attractions.

Main Sacred Places of Kushinagar

Being witness to an event as momentous as Buddha Shakyamuni’s passing, Kushinagar has become home to several sites of religious importance. Here is a brief guide to the three main centres of pilgrimage.

Mahaparanirvana Temple

The Mahaparinirvana Temple is located in the village of Kasia in the new Deoria district. The temple complex consists of a main building with a unique curved roof structure that contains a large 5th century statue of Buddha Shakyamuni and the excavated stupa beside which the temple has been built. Both structures are painted a brilliant pure white.

Mahaparinirvana Temple

Inside the temple lies a statue of Buddha Shakyamuni which depicts him reclining on a bed, in the now-famous pose of the Buddha facing the West while lying on his right side. The statue is 20 feet (6.1 meters) long and is made of Chunar sandstone.

The Reclining Buddha in the Mahaparinirvana Temple

It was excavated in 1876 and made into a living shrine in 1927 by Chandra Swami, a Burmese monk.

Behind the temple stands the 62-foot (19m) white stupa excavated in 1867 known as the Parinirvana stupa. It houses Buddha Shakyamuni’s relics.

Ramabhar Stupa

Ramabhar Stupa is another stupa of great significance in Kushinagar. It stands where Buddha Shakyamuni was cremated, just 1.5km east of the Mahaparinirvana Temple. This stupa stands 49 feet (14.9m) high and is often referred as the Mukut-Bandhan Vihar (Garden of the Bound Crown) in ancient Buddhist texts.

Ramabhar Stupa

Matha Kuar Shrine

The third holy site of great significance is the Matha Kuar Shrine, literally the ‘Forehead Prostration’ Shrine.

Matha Kuar Shrine

Within the building sits a 10 foot (3.05m) Buddha statue. The statue symbolises Buddha Shakyamuni meditating under the Bodhi tree in the Bhumisparsha mudra (Earth-Touching Pose) and is carved out of blue stone.

The 3.05m-high Matha Kuar Buddha statue

Other Sacred Places in Kushinagar

The rich history of Kushinagar lends itself to the existence of an archaeological treasure trove of discovery. In addition to the three sacred places above, Kushinagar is home to many other sites that are worth a visit. These sites include:

Indo-Japan-Sri Lanka Temple

Designed by the Atago Isshin World Buddhist Cultural Association, this temple is a marvel of Buddhist architectural grandeur.

Built as a circular chamber with small stained-glass windows, it houses the famous and beautiful Ashta Dhatu (eight metals) statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, transported all the way from Japan.

Wat Thai Temple

This temple is built on a huge complex with typical yet unique Thai-Buddhist architecture. It is surrounded by lush greenery planted as part of the landscape of the temple grounds.

The Wat Thai was built to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of the ascension of King Bhumibol to the Thai throne.

Chinese Temple

Although popularly known as the Chinese Temple, its official name is the Lin Sun Temple and it features architecture which draws from both Vietnamese and Chinese influences. A beautiful and majestic Chinese image of Buddha takes centre stage inside.

The temple is open from sunrise to sunset. It is also possible to stay overnight here; the temple’s management provides free accommodation to pilgrims.

Myanmar Buddha Vihar

Myanmar Buddha Vihar has the honour of being the first monastery in Kushinagar.

This temple is adorned with beautiful metal statues of Buddha Shakyamuni. In addition, there is also a unique collection of excavated bone and metals (asthidhatu).

Birla Temple

Built by the Birlas, one of India’s most influential industrialist families, this temple is close to the site of Buddha Shakyamuni’s parinirvana. Dedicated to the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, the Birla temple in Kushinagar has a marble statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, alluding to the closeness between the two faiths.

Ruins & Brick Structures

Remains of ancient buildings and other structures of varying size, many of which are still being excavated and identified, dot the Kushinagar landscape and make it a magnet for the intrepid pilgrim. Their presence is a testament to the great importance that the area held in the past, and also explains why Kushinagar is such a significant pilgrimage destination so many centuries later today.

Other Places of Interest

Notwithstanding its reputation as a centre of pilgrimage, Kushinagar has, over the years, developed other attractions that are worth a visit. The two best ones are the Government Kushinagar Museum and the Meditation Park.

Government Kushinagar Museum

Commonly known as Buddha Museum, this attraction is situated around half a kilometre from Mahaparinirvana Temple.

The highlight of the museum is the stucco statue of Lord Buddha in meditative posture, which is hailed as one of the finest specimens of the Gandhara School of Art.

Other exhibits include precious antiques such as ancient coins, statues, sculptures, architectural remains and bronze statues uncovered from various excavation sites. Besides Buddhist relics, Hindu and Jain antiques are also on display, alongside Tibetan thangkas (rectangular cloth paintings) and Mughal miniature paintings.

The Government Kushinagar Museum is located 1 kilometre southeast of the Kushinagar bus stand and three kilometres from the Kasia bus stand.

Meditation Park

This is a small park close to the Mahaparinirvana shrine in Kushinagar. The serene ambience of the park and the beautiful surroundings, particularly the bodies of water with their exquisite bright green hues, make it a perfect meditation spot.

Pilgrims will find it a joy to concentrate their mental energies here, a place where so many ancient, learned beings stood, lived and preached. It is believed that their presence never completely fades from such holy sites.

Upcoming Destinations of Significance

The Maitreya Project

This is a beautiful and magnificent project initiated by Lama Yeshe who was deeply inspired by his first return to Tibet in 1981. According to the Buddhist scriptures, Maitreya Buddha is predicted to be the next Buddha among 1,000 Buddhas to manifest on this planet to spread teachings to bring us to liberation, known as the Dharma.

Kushinagar was chosen as the site of this project because according to the scriptures, it has been said that Kushinagar is the place where Maitreya Buddha (the fifth Buddha) will manifest.

The main focal point of the Maitreya Project is the bronze-plated statue of Maitreya Buddha himself. When completed, it will sit on a stone throne temple and rise to 500 feet (152m) tall.

Artist’s impression of the Kushinagar Maitreya Project

The Maitreya Project is being developed adjacent to the Mahaparinirvana Temple and Ramabhar Stupa. The choice of site is not by coincidence. When the project is finally completed, in close proximity to one another will be the site of Buddha Shakyamuni’s passing (Mahaparinirvana Temple), the site of his cremation (the Ramabhar Stupa), and the site where the next Buddha is predicted to manifest.

Japanese Garden

Construction is currently underway on this project spearheaded by the Japanese government. However, the grounds are already open to visitors from sunrise to sunset. The Uttar Pradesh government will take over maintenance of the grounds upon completion.

Major Festival – Buddha Purnima

Kushinagar is a centre of Buddhist celebrations because of the greatly historical events that have taken place here. One such celebration, the Buddha Purnima or Vaisakh Purnima (commonly referred as Wesak or Vesak Day in Malaysia), is the most important festival of the Buddhist calendar and sees the largest celebrations in Kushinagar.

This auspicious festival is celebrated to commemorate the three important stages of Buddha Shakyamuni’s life: His birth, enlightenment, and passing.

Pilgrims and other visitors are encouraged to visit and participate in the festivities and events. It is believed that auspicious astronomical alignments, upon which the exact date of Buddha Purnima is determined, strengthen the energies in and around Kushinagar on the day.

Location

Location map of Kushinagar in relation to Lumbini, Bodhgaya and Sarnath

Kushinagar, known as Kusinara during the Buddha’s time, is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists because it is where Buddha Shakyamuni attained parinirvana after his passing. Many Buddhist practitioners, especially from Asia, yearn to visit Kushinagar at least once in their lifetime because of its importance to their faith.

Kushinagar, with its population of 17,983 people, is a town and a Nagar Panchayat (municipal council) in the Kushinagar district of the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is located around National Highway-28 (NH-28), and is 52 kilometres east of Gorakhpur city.

Walking tour map of Kushinagar

Best Time to Visit

Best time to visit: October to April (Winter)

• Summer: March to May (20°C – 40°C)
• Monsoon: June to September (28°C – 34°C)
• Winter: October to March (12°C – 20°C)

Kushinagar experiences scorching heat during the summer and the wet rainy days during the monsoon season. However, the winter weather can be quite pleasant and this is considered the best time to visit.

Do remember to bring along a jacket and some warm clothing as the temperature at night can drop to as low as 12°C.

Transport

By Air

• Gorakphur Airport: 44km away
• Kasia Airstrip: 5km away
• Amausi Airport (in the state capital of Lucknow): 252km away
• Babatpur Airport (Varanasi): 286km away

By Rail

The nearest railway station is conveniently-located Gorakhpur. Gorakphur Train Station is well-connected to other important railway stations in major destinations, and can easily be reached.

By Road

National Highway-28 (NH-28) connects Kushinagar with other important destinations of the state.

Important road distances from Kushinagar include:

• Gorakhpur: 53km
• Shravasti: 254km
• Sarnath: 266km
• Agra: 680km

Accommodation

1. Lotus Nikko Hotel Kushinagar

• Mid-range
• Free Parking
• 5 Minutes’ Walk from Mahaparinirvana Temple and Japanese Temple
• No-frills accommodation
• #3 of 3 Hotels in Kushinagar by Best Value + Top Rated. 17/03/2017 – “First nice hotel at Kushinagar” ; 12/02/2017 – “Nice experience”
• Buddha Marg, Kushinagar 274403, India

2. The Imperial Kushinagar

• New hotel with contemporary design and stylish room
• Within walking distance of the Mahaparinirvana Temple
• #6 of 3 Hotels in Kushinagar by Best Value + Top Rated. 06/05/2017 – “Was OK 20 years ago” ; 23/03/2017 – “A nice old hotel”
• Buddha Marg, Kushinagar 274403, India

3. Hotel Adelphi Grande Kushinagar

• 1.0km from Kushinagar centre
• Within easy walking distance of the high street and Parinivana temple
• #3 of 4 Kushinagar B&B and Inns. 15/04/2017 – “It is what it is.” ; 13/03/2017 – “Could do better”
• Budhnagari Buddha Marg, Kushinagar 274402, India

4. The Royal Residency Kushinagar

• 0.2km from Kushinagar centre
• #1 of 4 Kushinagar B&B and Inns
• Contemporary Japanese-owned hotel next to the Thai temple
• Perfect place for visiting the Buddhist sites
• #1 of 4 Kushinagar B&B and Inns. 17/03/2017 – “Nice property and one of the best” ; 18/11/2016 – “Best of a poor choice”
• Buddha Marg, Kushinagar 274403, India

5. Olive Tree Hotel Kushinagar

• 1.9 km from Kushinagar centre
• Listed as Apartment Hotel
• #2 of 4 Kushinagar B&B and Inns. 30/08/2016 – “Good, Budget rooms.” ; 30/08/2016 – “Good hotel with good food.”
• National Highway 28, Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh 274402, India

Food and Beverage

1. Vipassana & Cafe

Address: West to Mathakuwar shrine, In the campus of Vipassana Center Bishunpur, Bindwalia, Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh 274403, India
Cuisines: Chinese, Indian, Fast food, International
Hours: 6AM–8PM

2. Yama Cafe

Address: Buddha Marg, Kushinagar, Uttar Pradesh 274403, India
Cuisines: Chinese, Indian, Fast food, International
Hours: 8AM–8PM

3. Gokul Sweet and Restaurant

Address: Tamkuhi Road, Kushinagar, Near Malgodam Chauraha, Sewarhi, Uttar Pradesh 274406, India
Cuisines: Chinese, Indian, Fast food, International, Vegetarian Friendly
Hours: 8AM–9PM

4. Curry Hut

Address: Civil Lines Road Opposite Hydil Petrol Pump, Deoria, Uttar Pradesh 274001, India
Cuisines: Indian, Thai, Chinese, Vegetarian Friendly
Hours: 11AM–11PM

5. Golden Moments Restaurant

Address: Gorakhpur – Deoria Rd, Raghav Nagar, Deoria, Uttar Pradesh 274001, India
Cuisines: Indian, Asian, Balti, Bangladeshi, Vegetarian Friendly
Hours: 11AM–11PM

Do’s and Don’ts

Lastly, if one were to pay a visit to the sacred sites and temples, here are some guidelines on what one should observe:

• DO take off your shoes before entering the inner parts of the main temple/ stupa complex.
• DO wear clothing that expresses respect for the sacred nature of the site. Revealing clothing, low necklines, high hems and shorts are greatly discouraged and will earn you disapproving looks from pilgrims there to pay their respects.
• DO circumambulate the stupa and other sacred objects in a clockwise direction.
• DO preserve the peace and tranquility of the temples and holy sites you are visiting. Keep your voice low. Loud voices and shouting are discouraged.
• DO buy genuine or authenticated items to bring home as a souvenir. Beware of counterfeit items.
• DON’T buy stolen artefacts as they may land you in the prison. It is illegal in India to export antiques, while their sale within the country is allowed only with a permit or licence. Please respect the cultural heritage of the country.
• DON’T climb onto statues, monuments and other sacred objects. Remember these are objects of worship for another person’s religion. Respect their faith and help to preserve these sites for future generations ahead.

Sources:

• http://www.buddhist-tourism.com/countries/india/pilgrimage/kushinagar.html
• http://wigowsky.com/travels/india/India4/kushinagar4.htm
• http://fpmt.org/projects/other/maitreya/kushinagar/
• http://www.indiacollegeshub.com/knowledge/buddha-purnima-festival.aspx
• https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/kushinagar/attractions/buddha-museum/a/poi-sig/1152306/356514
• https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/kushinagar/attractions/mahaparinirvana-temple/a/poi-sig/1294003/356514
• http://mbpkushinagar.org/
• http://www.nivalink.com/hotel/kushinagar
• https://promarktravels.com/blog/2015/10/matha-kuar-shrine-kushinagar/
• http://www.sindhindia.com/m/uttar-pradesh/kushinagar/kushinagar/
• http://www.buddhist-pilgrimage.com/kushinagar.html
• https://www.tourmyindia.com/pilgrimage/kushinagar.html
• https://www.tripadvisor.com.my/Hotels-g776433-Kushinagar_Kushi_Nagar_District_Uttar_Pradesh-Hotels.html
• https://www.trivago.in/kushinagar-404991/hotel
• http://wigowsky.com/travels/india/India4/kushinagar4.htm
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kushinagar

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• Pilgrimage Through India & Nepal

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